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The Theoretical Cook


Thursday, March 16, 2006

Tiula Itum (Black Soup)

Tiula itum is a Tausug dish. It is exotic even to me. I just had my first taste of the famous Tiula Itum today at Khisna's Muslim Cuisine in Zamboanga. 'Itum' means black. So don't be surprised if you're served a piping hot black broth. As L put it, the blacker the better. Also, the hotter the better, the spicier the better.
Its a black broth of beef or chicken flavored with ginger and turmeric and burned coconut meat. Yes, burned. This famous dish is served during special occasions: weddings, religious festivities, and other celebrations.
The tiula itum is mentioned in a section on Tausug culture website on Filipino weddings:
"The wedding feast is prepared on the eve of the wedding. The quantity prepared depends upon the number of guests expected. The more affluent parents slaughter two or more cows and cook several sacks of rice for the occasion. The tiula itim (black soup) is a favorite dish and is prepared in large quantities in a cawa (vat) or big pot. Rice is cooked in a big cooking pot or in empty kerosene cans. Native cakes are prepared some days before the wedding day. Food served on this day is similar to the food served during the pag-turul taimah, such as kurma, sati, kari-kari, piassak, tiulah, sambal, and tiulah itum. Prepared viands are placed in a room where some women are signed to facilitate the allocating and serving of food on the trays. The native cakes served with coffee before lunch are bulha (small cakes of different shapes and designs), hantak or kukus (small fried cakes in various shapes) and bang-bang paklud (banana fritters and the like). The feast is served on long tables arranged in the panggong (temporary shed) constructed adjacent to the house for the occasion" (Abdulla, Dr. Norma Abubakar. The Food and Culture of the Tausug. p.90-91 )

Here is the procedure for making the dish as relayed to me by L. I have yet to try it.

Tiula Itum (Black Soup)

Mature Coconut Meat
Beef Stew Meat
Green Chili

1) Roast the coconut meat until its black. Pound the burnt coconut meat to powder.
2) Pound turmeric ginger. Then mix with the coconut dust.
3) Use mixture to rub the beef cuts.
4) Saute onions.
5) Add the beef cuts.
6) Add water. Let boil then simmer until meat is tender.
7) Add chili.
8) Season to taste.

Browsing Slow Food - Philippine Culinary Traditions, I found a dish that used a similar cooking method, the burning of coco meat. In the article, "Favorite Bicol Dish: Adobong Manok sa Sinunog na Gata", the author Elizabeth Romualdez, waxes nostalgic about her favorite dish that 'involves the tedious process of burning freshly-grated coconut". In the case of the Bicolono adobo, the goal is just the extraction of the coconut cream (gata) which has become grayish in color and with black specks due to the burning.
Bicol and Northern Mindanao cuisine share one thing: coconut in all its culinary possibilities. I was surprised to see that the burning of coconut meat is also one of them. Somehow, I wonder about the health repercussions of this dish.
So, did I like my Tiula Itum? I took many tentative sips but I think it falls under the category of 'acquired taste.'


Blogger Kai said...

Mapait? I'm intrigued, though, I'd like to try it.

11:51 AM  
Blogger Theoretical Cook said...

Hi Kai! Surprisingly hindi mapait. Parang smoky flavor lang. Parang nilaga (gata) na maanghang at me gata. Yung kulay talaga ang nakakagulat.

11:37 PM  
Anonymous Karen said...

Aha! Finally, someone featured this kind of tiula. I have a recipe but am hesitant to try it because I've never tasted it before. I've only seen it featured in Susan Calo-Medina's show sometime back.

Thanks for featuring this!

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I have just one question.. why is there beef in the recipe? Do Muslims eat beef? Is it not included in the restricted foods, like pork?

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11:28 PM  
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4:35 AM  

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